Keep Your Perennials Blooming Longer With These Must-Know Tips And Tricks

We may receive a commission on purchases made from links.

You've got to admit, few things are as satisfying as seeing your favorite perennials burst into full bloom. But that garden transformation can be bittersweet, as you know the clock's ticking once those buds open up. Luckily, there are ways to keep the garden party going and ensure your perennials stay blooming for longer than ever.

This isn't just about wishing for more flower power, so to speak; it's about understanding the biology and botany behind your garden and using that to your advantage. That's why we're breaking down a few of our favorite clever tricks that can dramatically increase the time you get to enjoy that cottagecore look with a garden full of big, happy flowers. We'll show you why it works, plus give a few tips that can help you get that change delivered to your perennials ASAP. With a little know-how and a good set of pruning shears, your perennials are about to give their longest running performance yet, and will transform your landscape into a continuous rainbow of colors.

If you're primarily dealing with late summer or early fall bloomers, you need to try the Chelsea Chop method. This is a strategic pruning method that involves snipping back specific perennials around late May, when the plants have pushed out the majority of their vegetative growth. Incidentally, late May is also the Royal Horticultural Society's (RHS) Chelsea flower show, hence the name. The Chelsea Chop works because it's not just a trim here and there; it's a drastic change that delays bloom time, encourages bushier growth, and prevents the plant from getting leggy or falling over.

The Chelsea Chop works really well on chrysanthemums, sedum, and asters and prolongs their flower display. Start by randomly selecting half of the stems throughout the plant and cut only those back by 1/3 to 1/2. The untouched stems will flower on their normal schedule, while the chopped stems will produce blossoms later in the season, creating a staggered, continuous floral display. The plant might look a little rough for a few days post-chop, but it will quickly leaf back out or can always be hidden by directing attention to earlier blooming plants instead. 

Just when you thought your perennials were spent, in swoops the Hampton Hack. Unlike the Chelsea Chop, the Hampton Hack — named after the RHS' Hampton Court Palace Flower Show — happens around later July after the first wave of blooms has faded. It's a bit scary if done correctly, because it involves a severe hacking — up to 2/3 of the plant — but works because it forces the perennial to divert the energy it would typically use during this time for seed production into producing new growth. And with new growth comes new flowers; it's like a late season refresh.

The Hampton Hack works on early summer flowering plants, so make sure you've got the right perennial before hacking away. Typically, you're looking at delphiniums, early-flowering geraniums, early-flowering salvias, oriental poppies, and red valerian, just to name a few. Cut the plant down as close to the base of the stems as possible — we told you it was severe! You want to chop it as close to the ground as you can. Then, give it a hit of fertilizer to promote new growth, and water it. In about a week you should see new shoots and flower buds forming. 

Giving your perennials a strategic early pruning sesh can seriously boost their bloom power by improving their overall health. A proper spring pruning does double duty by removing winter damage and encouraging new growth — which is where perennials like to stick their buds. This isn't just about tidying up, it's about signaling to the plant that the pollinators are waking up, so it's time to put on the most magnificent display possible. The perennial channels its energy and resources into attracting as many pollinators as possible, instead of lazily maintaining old, less productive parts. 

Timing is everything with a strategic prune and this is where many gardeners miss the mark. For perennials that usually flower after May, like roses, the early spring pruning will absolutely benefit their bloom duration. Meanwhile, early-blooming perennials like lilacs and azaleas have already begun their flower production energy distribution in the early spring, so you'll need to do a strategic pruning after they've finished flowering. So, know your plant's normal bloom schedule before breaking out the shears, so that you don't accidentally cut off its floral display right when it's about to begin. 

Deadheading your garden might sound a little morbid, but it's actually one of the easiest and most effective ways to encourage perennials to keep pumping out the flowers. All deadheading involves is snipping off spent blossoms right when they start to look a little sad. Not only does this help the plant by stopping it from directing energy into making seeds, but encourages the plant to create side shoots for new flowers and to keep creating blossoms for the pollinators to pollinate. 

To deadhead effectively, you'll need to use clean, sharp pruning shears, so that you don't accidentally introduce diseases from other pruned plants. You can also just your fingers to pinch off the faded flower or seed pod. Make your cut or pinch just below the spent bloom or above a healthy leaf or new bud. For plants with multiple small flowers on a single stalk, like delphiniums, you can remove the entire flower stalk once most of the individual blooms have faded.

Picking the right spot for your perennials goes a lot further than you might think for ensuring you get a spectacular, long-lasting flower display. Many perennials are deep-rooted plants that need room for their roots to stretch out, find water, and take in the nutrients necessary for sustained blooming seasons. If your planting site is too shallow, the roots will also stay shallow, limiting the plant's ability to access the things it needs to grow strong and healthy, and having less of an anchor into the ground. When a windy day rolls around, that shallow root system won't be able to brace the plant against the elements, and may result in breakage or the plant toppling over, ending its blooming season. 

To give your perennials the best start, shoot for a planting site that can be tilled at a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Once you've found the right site, check out the soil's composition. Most perennials want a soil that's rich in organic matter, so that it has something to draw nutrients from. Good organic matter amendments include compost, grass clippings, and biochar. However, some perennials, like lavender, prefer sandier soils, so make sure to match your perennials with your soil's makeup. The best way to improve heavy clay soil is by adding stuff into it that boosts drainage, so that the plant's roots don't rot in excessive moisture. A few good drainage-improving amenders include perlite, coconut coir, and compost. 

We know, it sounds completely logical that more "plant food" would equal more flowers, and nitrogen is a very important nutrient for plants. But when it comes to perennials, overdoing the nitrogen can actually backfire and cause the plant to focus more on the foliage and less on the flowers. Nitrogen is a macronutrient that helps promote stem and leafy green growth, but an excessive amount of it in your soil signals to your plant that it needs to focus all of its energy into using the nitrogen to build a big bushy monstrosity, instead of a full-on flower display. Going in blindly and tossing a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer down essentially gives your perennials the wrong tool for the job, if you want to extend the bloom season as far as you can.

The first step for ensuring your perennials have everything they need is to get a soil test done, even if you've already planted everything. Soil tests are super simple (you can even DIY a soil test), but incredibly useful, because they tell you what nutrients your soil already has and what it needs. Once you know your soil's baseline, you can pick the right fertilizer that balances the nutrients your plants need to push out and maintain big, beautiful blooms. The next step is applying the fertilizer at the right time. For early-blooming perennials, giving them a good hit early in the spring is best, while later-bloomers can typically handle one or two fertilizer applications during their bloom seasons to ensure they get the food they need to keep their bloom season going. Regardless of the time of year you apply the fertilizer, make sure to give the soil a good watering after, so that the nutrients can get down to the roots while excess fertilizer can be diluted, preventing root burn. 

You can give your soil all the organic amendments, drainage, and macronutrients in the world, but if your soil's pH level is off, it might as well be moot. Soil pH is critical, because it affects how much of the nutrients the plants can access. If a soil's pH is too far off, it can make essential nutrients insoluble and unable to be taken in by the roots. As you can imagine, the less nutrients your perennials can access, the fewer resources it has to expend the energy of pushing out and maintaining flowers. For most perennials, shoot for a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.

Soil tests will typically tell you the pH level of your garden, but you can also just DIY it with a soil pH meter. There are meters that go for under $10, but this isn't the place to skimp — you need the right data to keep your perennials happy. We like HSGLOVE's 7-in-1 Soil Test Kit Meter, because it checks the moisture level, pH level, soil temperature, and basically all the variables you need to know to have a healthy garden. Unfortunately, adding fertilizer won't correct soil pH, but don't worry, correcting it isn't as hard as it sounds. If your soil's pH level is too alkaline, you can fix soil pH imbalances with things like aluminum sulfate, sulfur, and sphagnum moss to make it more acidic. Just be sure to test again after a few weeks to make sure the level is stable and hitting that sweet spot perennials love.

Getting the water routine right is crucial if you want your perennials to give you the longest bloom season possible. When perennials are setting their buds or actively flowering, they need a consistent supply of moisture. Too little water can reduce the number of buds your plant produces and a dry perennial will prematurely drop whatever flowers it has to save the plant's energy for getting through the drought. So, keep your plants happy by giving them a good drink when they're working hard.

But what is a "good drink" really? It starts with the amount; a daily once-over with the hose isn't enough — your plants need the water to hit the roots, instead of the foliage. The best method is deep watering — shooting for 1 inch of water a week. That's probably more than you're envisioning, so let's break it down: A 200 square-foot garden needs 100 gallons and a 100 foot hose pushes approximately 12 to 15 gallons a minute, so you'll need to water your garden for six to eight minutes each session. If you're in the middle of a heatwave, you'll probably want to increase that to two inches, but check your soil's moisture level first. 

But nearly 10 minutes of standing around watering your plants can be boring and life gets busy; we get it. Luckily, there are now automated irrigation systems available that have solar pumps, soaker hoses, or drip irrigation that push the water directly into the soil. We've used the HEKIWAY Solar Drip Irrigation System by running it through a rain water barrel with success. Just note, you'll probably need more tubing than you think, so pick up an extra HEKIWAY Solar Drip Irrigation Kit Accessories, too, just to be safe. 

Seeing your big, beautiful perennials snap under the weight of a heavy rain or in strong winds is heartbreaking. Many top-heavy perennial beauties need a little help to stay upright and keep their blooms looking their best. When stems break, it's not just an eyesore; it means fewer flowers for you and a stressed plant that now has to divert its energy into repair mode, rather than flower production.

The good news is, supporting your perennials is pretty simple. You can use stakes made from wire, plastic, or bamboo — just make sure to get them in the ground early in the season, before your plants get too tall. Insert the stakes into the soil near the plant's base, then gently tie the stems to the stake using soft plant ties or plant Velcro. Be careful not to twist the ties too tightly, as this can choke, or girdle, the stem. If all goes well, the plant's foliage will cover the stakes, so they won't detract from your plant's natural beauty. This little bit of support will ensure your perennials can stand tall and proud, showcasing their blooms all season long.

Like us, plants are not a fan of intense summer heat, and can cut their bloom seasons short just to get through the heatwave. A scorching temperature doesn't just make them wilt, it can cause delicate petals to shrivel, fade, or prematurely die off. It's due to heat stress, where the plant's energy gets diverted from flower production to just plain survival. You can imagine how frustrating it can be to see your happy garden full of flowers become barren faster than expected, all thanks to an unplanned heatwave. 

To help keep perennials cool and extend their bloom times, you'll need to plant them strategically and give a little extra care. Plants that are susceptible to heat stress, like roses and hydrangeas, should be planted somewhere that has coverage from the midday sun. For those already planted, or if you're lacking a good shady spot, you'll need to create shade. Most gardeners do this by adding a shade cloth over the plant. You can drape it directly over the perennial if its a bushier type, or DIY a hoop house that will act like a semi-shady tent. Shade cloths come in a range of colors and thicknesses, but we like DECOHS Plant Sun Protection Cloth, because it's white instead of black or green, which means the light will be reflected back up, instead of being absorbed and causing the temperature around the plants to rise. 

Dividing dense perennials sounds counterintuitive if you want a garden thick with flowers, but not doing so is way more detrimental than you think. When a perennial becomes overcrowded, it becomes competitive with its neighbors, fighting for light, nutrients, and water. This struggle makes plants expend energy towards competing instead of flowering, causing them to look sad and weak. A weak plant also can't defend itself against diseases or pests, leading whatever flowers it can produce to be potentially short-lived and wimpy. So, give your plants the space they need to thrive by dividing them before they're too cramped.

The good news is dividing perennials is pretty easy and most will be thrilled by all of their new, open space. Start by digging into the crown of the plant and cutting it with a Gonicc Hori Hori Garden Knife or spade. Ensure each division has its own set of roots — at least three to five — and then plant one of the sections in a new spot. It's best to do this in the early spring or fall, so that it's not right in the middle of when the plant is focusing on flowering.